I’ve had a hard time finding good, free handwriting sheets for my son to practice his handwriting on that doesn’t involve clicking through a bunch of links or viewing a ton of ads. So I made my own and sharing it with you here, in case you need to print some for your little ones for this stay-at-home school time. There are little characters at the bottom of each page to make it a little fun!
This is a video tutorial on how to sew a cotton fabric facemask. As you know, this is not a replacement for healthgrade masks (like surgical or N95s) but is intended for the general public to help provide limited protection when out in public.
You’ll notice there are two “sizes” in the template file. These sizes are arbitrary. The small fits me and the medium fits Jerod. If you find it doesn’t fit your face, trim down the template or make it bigger to see if it fits better.
- 2 kinds of cotton fabric (one for the outer and inner layers, and a different color for the pocket)
- 4″ nose wire (can use garden wire, a thick grocery twist-tie, etc.)
- 2 pony beads (or similar)
- 1 small safety pin
- 2 pieces of 1/4″ cotton bias tape, 16″ each. If you don’t have bias tape, thin shoelaces will work too!
- Filter paper (optional–or use any nonwoven fabric like a dried baby wipe or Wet One)
- I used a 3/8″ seam allowance because it was easier to iron down the edges. If you sew 1/4″ the mask will be larger and if you do a 1/2″ it will be smaller…in case you need to adjust and don’t want to redraw a new template.
- 1/4″ bias tape works the best with the pony beads. If you don’t have bias tape, find something around the house that is about the same width that will fit in the pony bead without the bead falling off.
- I labeled the top of the mask on each pattern piece. This is important when sewing everything together because my mask pieces are not symmetrical.
- After you wash your mask, iron it before wearing it or it won’t fit well.
I made about 6 masks from several other online tutorials and while were great, they didn’t work with my face (I have a flat face and small nose) so I ended up designing my own. While there are much simpler designs out there (including just wrapping a scarf around your face) I like this one because it’s compact, adjustable, fitted, and has the option to add a filter.
Here are a few features:
NOSE WIRE: A built-in nose wire at the top allows you to bend the top of the mask around your nose for a better fit.
ADJUSTABLE, REMOVABLE STRAPS: Most other tutorials use elastic around the ears or ties for around the head. The problem with elastic around the ears is that it has to be tight enough to get somewhat of a seal around your face, but when I would smile or laugh, it would fall off. It was also uncomfortable for me. The mask style where you tie the straps around your head, it was nearly impossible to do that without getting my hair caught in the bow. Also, the straps would slide down my head. This new mask design uses beads to hold cotton fabric straps around your ear and I think it works a lot better.
FILTER POCKET: For added protection you can cut a piece of non-woven fabric and put it inside the filter pocket. Please be careful when using a HEPA filter from a product because many contain fiberglass which is harmful. After reading that article I decided to stick to papertowels as my filter. I read you can also use a dried out baby wipe or Wet One wipe.
Sorry the video is kinda long (about 16 min). I’ve never done an online tutorial before. Not sure if I’ll ever do another one either haha!
How to Throw a Hobbit “Elevenses” Birthday Party
When my sister Kaycee turned 30, she wanted to have a LOTR themed birthday party. Thankfully I am also a LOTR fan so I was super excited to bust out my inner “Ringer” and start planning.
A little backstory: When the first trilogy was released, Kaycee had a strange obsession with Legolas and his flowing blonde hair. One day when I was at Rite Aid, I found a life-sized cut out of him on sale so I bought it and she has had it propped up in her room for years (a little freaky, yes). Her love for Legolas waned for a few years until the Hobbit trilogy was announced and Legolas was written in (thank you Peter Jackson).
A Hobbit party cannot be considered a Hobbit party without the iconic green door from Bilbo’s house. Although Kaycee was pretty kick back with her decoration request, I knew from the start that I was going to build a door. Except as a graphic designer with no construction background, I had to fake it since I wasn’t about to learn how to use a saw. Below are instructions if you are ever crazy enough to want to make one:
– Three 1-inch 4x8ft foam insulation panels from Home Depot, or similar hardware store. They’re between $15-$30 each depending on the brand/quality.
– Green and black water based paint: I was able to get away with using only 1 container of the “sample” paint from home depot. For the black paint (used to draw the lines on the door) I used some leftover black acrylic paint I had lying around.
– Beige water based paint: We had leftover Behr ultra beige paint from painting our home so I put it to use painting the surrounding door walls with it, so no extra money there. If you need to buy it, I would buy at least a quart.
– Red paint and sponge: This is for the bricks that frame the door.
– Foam cutting tool like this. Definitely a must. Don’t try to cut this kind of foam with a knife, or little white foam balls will flake off everywhere.
– Brown cardboard box: I order from Amazon all the time so I always have some recyclable boxes handy.
– Scrap 2x4s
– Yardstick with a hole in it
– Pencil or other sharp pointy object
– Duct tape
1. Begin by measuring the area where your door is going to fit. On our porch, the opening is a little shorter than 8′ so I had to cut off a few inches off the foam boards to get it to fit.
2. Using duct tape, tape the two pieces of foam together every 10″ or so against their long sides (thus forming one big piece of foam that is 8’x8′). No need to go crazy with the tape because you will need to remove it.
3. Next you need to draw out the circle which will be the actual door opening. Make your own protractor with a yardstick (or similar), pencil and sharpie. Most metal measuring sticks have a hole on one end. Stick your pencil in this end and tape the sharpie at the end (Note that my “yardstick” is actually only 30″ long so if you use a traditional yardstick and want to follow my dimensions exactly, you’ll have to tape the sharpie at the 30″ mark, NOT at the very end).
4. Next, remove the tape from step 2 and separate the two foam boards. Cut the foam along the sharpie lines you just drew, using the foam cutting tool. Remember my note from above: this foam cutting tool is a must. It’s not too expensive. If you try to cut this kind of foam with anything else you’ll have a big mess and a jagged cut.
5. Peel off all the silver foil from all the pieces of foam boards. The foil should only be on one side (the other side is a plastic sheet, which cannot be removed easily)
6. Next, join together the half circles by gluing the seam with a hot glue gun (sorry I have no photo of this step). Hot glue bonds foam really well. After you do this, you should have a full circle for the door. Next, glue the other two pieces together at the seam, which will create the wall/door frame for your circle door.
After you’ve finished hot gluing, now it’s time to paint! Paint the circle door green using ONLY WATER BASED PAINT. Spray paint does not work on foam because the chemicals in it eat away at the foam. Next paint the wall/door frame beige or light brown.
7. After the green paint dries on the door, use a long straight edge and paint black lines about 6″ apart on the door. Hint: Paint the seam black and then work your way outwards. That way, the seam blends in to the design.
8. After all paint dries, place the door inside the wall/door frame. Looks pretty good already!
9. Now it’s time to make the bricks that surround the door. I used recycled shipping boxes and sponge painted them with red to give it that brick texture. Then cut them into rectangles about 8-9″ long. Snip the corners a little so the bricks aren’t perfect rectangles.
10. Next, glue (using hot glue) the bricks down so that it lines the door opening, spacing them out ever so slightly so that none of them are touching. I used exactly 50 bricks for the whole circumference, but you may need more or less depending on how big your bricks are.
11. And now, the hard but most rewarding part: Hanging the door frame and door. I first wedged in the door frame under our porch overhang. To make sure it didn’t fall back, I had my husband build a simple support out of 2x4s that I duct taped to the back.
You’ll see in the picture below that the wall/door frame didn’t completely fill my porch space so I had to use a third foam board (painted beige) and cut it to fit the opening. I adhered that to the larger piece with, of course, duct tape. 🙂
The sign on the door:
Favors: “Lembas Bread” (aka Madelines) wrapped in leaves
When It came time to think of favors, I immediately thought of the little lembas bread packs that the Hobbits carried with them on their journey. I searched high and low for individually-wrapped madelines that did not cost and arm and a leg and finally found them a the business Costco near my house.
I found a template online for the leaves and edited it in Photoshop so it would fit the madelines. Then we wrapped them up and tied them with string.
My sister loves tea so I bought a bunch of tea boxes from Sam’s Club to use as prizes for the games, because who wants to play games at a birthday party if there are not prizes?? I made custom wrapping paper from a map of Middle Earth that I found online. I printed out the map on my wideformat printer (13×19″) and wrapped each box.
As added decoration on the outside of my house, I made a directional sign similar to the one in the movies. I designed the arrows on my computer using a stock image of wood and overlaid some popular Middle Earth locations in addition to “Kaycee’s Party.”
Clearly I got lazy after making the door and didn’t document my process with the other aspects of the part.
It was a lot of work, but worth it for my sister! However, when you turn 40, your party decos are coming from Party City!! ❤
Back for a second year, Kabahead Kreations’ Wall Calendars! After informally polling several people, I went with the Asian food theme for the calendar again. Buy it now as a gift or for your home/office. Limited quantity available!
I’m pretty sure the #1 “Chinese” take out food item in America is orange chicken. In fact, after I designed this character, I started seeing several billboards from Panda Express advertising their original orange chicken.
The above design came from I thought I had one day after eating some Chinese food at Paul’s Kitchen in LA. Always getting a good kick out of fortune cookie sayings, I thought it would be funny to depict the cookies themselves having conversations with each other via their fortune strips. I had thrown around the idea of having words on the strip, but generally I like designing characters/scenes where words aren’t necessary. Hence, the heart ❤
This sushi boat design was my husband’s idea and if you ask him, he’ll tell you how proud he is for coming up with such a genius idea. I came up with the ikura skull & crossbones though. 🙂
It’s already May— where did the time go? June is right around the corner which means so is graduation season!
This weekend I had the blessing of taking grad photos for one of my old youth group kids, Kristin. She began attending our church as an 8th grader and I would post a photo from back then, but she’d probably kill me. 😉
Kristin has grown into a beautiful & smart young woman who loves Christ with all her heart! Congrats on graduating!
Special thanks to roommate Rebecca for coming along to fix hair/make up and hold the giant gold reflector 🙂
We almost didn’t get this shot below because of police activity minutes before.
My good friend’s cutie pie daughter just turned one this month so as her official photographer, I took a few photos of her all dressed up! As you can tell, she’s quite an active little girl so we had to distract her with candy, noise makers and pillow pets to get her to stay still in front of the backdrop.
Backdrop: 6′ wide white seamless paper
Lighting: Window lighting only! I set up right next to a large living room window
Equipment: Canon 5DMKII with 50mm f1.4 lens, plush monkey, and a lot of noise makers
Every year customers ask if I’m ever going to make a wall calendar. The answer this year: YES! HOORAY! I finally sat down and designed a unique wall calendar of cute Asian foods. It measures 8.5×14″ and is printed on 110# white index stock and is hand-bound and packaged.
I’m only doing a small run, less than 50. These will be sold exclusively at my craft shows so if you want one, come early (they will sell out fast!).
For our friends’ (Mai & Dale’s) wedding I was asked to make a cake topper. We all thought it would be cute to make characters of a Korean groom and Vietnamese bride wearing their traditional wedding outfits (hanbok and ao dai).
I decided to go with Fimo and Sculpey clay (also known as polymer clay) to make the cake topper. These clays are great because they come in a variety of colors (I didn’t have to mix any thing, just bought them off the shelf at Michaels). After sculpting, you bake them and they harden and become like mini statues, perfect for cake toppers that you can keep forever =)
Below is the groom wearing the traditional wedding hanbok (hat too!). The pattern on the chest was made using the same technique as Millefiori beads–I wrapped a bunch of colors together and then sliced a piece off.
Here is the bride wearing the Vietnamese wedding ao dai and khan dong (hat). I made the hat by rolling several strands of red and then squishing them together on top of a plastic Easter egg to keep the shape.
And here’s their shiba inu dog who also made an appearance on the cake!
After making my own wedding cake topper in 2009 I learned that it’s best to adhere each of the characters on top of a flat platform, which will allow them to sit nicely on the cake without frosting getting up in their feet, etc. I made a white platform out of some extra fimo clay and rolled it out to about a 1/4″ thickness, then baked it. I adhered the little figurines to it using earthquake putty so that they could be removed later, if desired.
The final figurines stand about 3.5″ tall.